Green Dragon Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

Materials:

The dragon is crocheted from Bambino NAKO yarn (75% acrylic, 25% wool) 130 m/50 g, crochet number 3. The size of the dragon is 30 cm in height and 50 cm in length

You’ll need:

approximately 200 g of ink of the main color (I have green) for the body and the remains of multi-colored ink for finishing (I have yellow and light green),

suitable hook,

filler (sintepon or holofiber),

14 buttons of different diameters (from 2 cm to 1 cm),

strong iris threads for button fastening,

false eyelashes (optional),

stitching needle with a large eye,

glue,

a little inc for felting,

satin ribbons for finishing (optional)

Abbreviations used:

V. p. – air loop

sc – single crochet

pst – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

sl-st – connecting post

BODY

Top ball:

We knit inc. St. Green colour. We stuff in the process of knitting, at the stage at which you are most comfortable.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

Let’s move on to a green thread.

8 – 16 row: 42 sc

Row 17: (5 sc, decavage) – 6 times (36)

Row 18: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

Row 19: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

Row 20: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

21 row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Row 22: tighten

Bottom ball:

We knit inc. St. Green colour. We stuff in the process of knitting, at the stage at which you are most comfortable.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

Row 8: (6 sc, inc.) – 6 times (48)

Row 9: (7 sc, inc.) – 6 times (54)

Row 10: (8 sc, inc.) – 6 times (60)

Let’s move on to a green thread.

11-22 row: 60 sc

23 row: (8 sc, decavage) – 6 times (54)

24 row: (7 sc, decavage) – 6 times (48)

In this place I embroider roses on the belly with ribbons, but you can then embroider ready-made flowers

25 row: (6 sc, decavage) – 6 times (42)

26 row: (5 sc, decavage) – 6 times (36)

27 row: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

28 row: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

Row 39: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

30 row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

We insert a button with inc thread – a button fastening, then we will attach the tail to it

Row 31: tighten

Sew the top and bottom as shown in the photo.

We do the button fastening like this: we take a button and a dense thread in several folds, insert it into the button, then we put this button into the product and finish knitting, the threads remain outside the part

TAIL

Each ball is knitted separately and connected to the previous one with a button fastening, one after the other.

We knit in green yarn. We stuff in the process of knitting, at the stage at which you are most comfortable.

1 ball:

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

Row 8: (6 sc, inc.) – 6 times (48)

Row 9: (7 sc, inc.) – 6 times (54)

Making a button fastening

pull the threads into the center of the part, and place the button on the other side, tie the thread with several knots, pulling it very tightly; for consistency, you can lubricate the knot with glue

10 – 20 row: 54 sc

21 row: (7 sc, decavage) – 6 times (48)

22 row: (6 sc, decavage) – 6 times (42)

23 row: (5 sc, decavage) – 6 times (36)

24 row: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

Row 25: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

26 row: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

Row 27: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Inserting a button

Row 28: tighten

2 ball.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

Row 8: (6 sc, inc.) – 6 times (48)

Making a button fastening (see photo)

9 – 18 row: 48 sc

Row 19: (6 sc, decavage) – 6 times (42)

Row 20: (5 sc, decavage) – 6 times (36)

21 row: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

Row 22: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

23 row: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

24 row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Inserting a button

Row 25: tighten

3 ball:

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

Making a button fastening (see photo)

8 – 16 row: 42 sc

Row 17: (5 sc, decavage) – 6 times (36)

Row 18: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

Row 19: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

Row 20: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

21 row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 ra z (12)

Inserting a button

Row 22: tighten

4 ball:

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Making a button fastening (see photo)

7 – 14 row: 36 sc

Row 15: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

Row 16: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

Row 17: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

Row 18: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Inserting a button

Row 19: tighten

5 ball:

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Making a button fastening (see photo)

6 – 12 row: 30 sc

Row 13: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

Row 14: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

15 row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Inserting a button

Row 16: tighten

6 ball:

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Making a button fastening (see photo)

5 – 10 row: 24 sc

11th row: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

Row 12: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Inserting a button

Row 13: tighten

Tip:

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

4 – 8 row: 18 sc

Making a button fastening

Row 9: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

10 – 11 row: 12 sc

Row 12: cut – 6 times (6)

Row 13: tighten

LEGS

Fingers – 6 pcs.

We knit in green yarn

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

5 – 9 row: 24 sc

Row 10: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

11th row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Main leg:

We knit St. green inc

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Let’s switch to green inscription

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

8th row: knit the loop behind the back wall – 8 sc, inc we connect the first finger 6 sc (grab the loops of both legs and fingers), then the second finger 6 sc and the third finger 6 sc, 16 sc (42)

Row 9: 8 sc, 6 sc on the first finger, 6 sc on the second and 6 sc on the third, 16 sc (42)

10 – 12 row: 42 sc

Row 13: (5 sc, cut) – 6 times (36)

Row 14: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

15 row: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

Row 16: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

Row 17: 18 sc

Row 18: increment 18 times (36)

Row 19: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

Row 20: (6 sc, inc.) – 6 times (48)

21 – 28 row: 48 sc

29 row: (6 sc, decavage) – 6 times (42)

Row 30: (5 sc, cut) – 6 times (36)

31 row: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

32 row: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

33 row: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

34 row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Row 35: tighten

We knit the second leg in the same way.

HANDS 2 pcs

I recommend knitting the thumbs first, then the three main ones, and without tearing the thread off the third, start assembling

Fingers – 6 pcs.

We knit in green yarn

1st row: 8 sc in amigurumi ring

2 – 6 row: 8 sc

Thumb – 2 pcs.

1st row: 8 sc in amigurumi ring

2 – 5 row: 8 sc

Assembly:

1st row: 4 sc of the first finger, 4 sc of the second 8 sc of the third finger, 4 sc of the second and 4 sc of the first (24)

2nd row: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

3 – 5 row: 30 sc

Row 6: For the Left hand: 16 sc, 4 sc inc and join the thumb, 10 sc (30)

For the other hand: 11 sc, 4 sc inc and connect the thumb, 14 (30)

Row 7: 16 sc, 4 sc on thumb, 10 sc (30)

8 row: 30 sc

Row 9: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

Row 10: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

11th row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

12 – 21 row: 12 sc

We leave the thread for incision, fold the arm in half and sew. We’re training our hand in incocesl-ste, I have a tight fist and a soft handle.

HEAD

We knit in green yarn. The head is knitted in a spiral.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

8 – 16 row: 42 sc

Row 17: 16 sc, 15 in. p., inc we lower 10 p sc into the 11th loop, 15 sc (47)

Row 18: 47 sc

Row 19: 4 increments, 4 increments, 4 increments, 8 increments, 4 increments, 4 increments, 3 increments (46)

Row 20: 46 sc

21 row: 4 inc, 4 decrement, 4 inc, 15 sc, 4 inc, 4 dec, 3 inc (53)

Row 22: 53 sc

Row 23: 1 sc, 4 incs, 4 decs, 5 incs, 19 sc, 5 incs, 4 decs, 3 incs, 1 sc, move the marker by 1 stitch (62)

Row 24: 62 sc

25 row: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times, 26 sc, (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (74)

Row 26: 74 sc

Row 27: (2 sc, inc.) – 4 times, 20 sc, (decab, 3 sc) – 4 times, 15 sc, (inc., 2 sc) – 4 times

28 – 42 row: 78 sc

At this stage you need to knit the dragon’s mouth, take a pink (or red) inc and start knitting along the edge of the nose 10 sc, further according to the scheme.

We sew the mouth to the chin.

So that the dragon’s nose is flat at the bottom, we cut out a blank from plastic (I had a lid from a mayonnaise bucket) in the following shape:

We insert it inside the head and glue it with glue, for reliability. We fill the nose and a little head.

Now we tie the head, stuffing it more tightly in incoccessl-ste.

43 row: (11 sc, decavage) – 6 times (72)

44 row: (10 sc, decavage) – 6 times (66)

45 row: (9 sc, decavage) – 6 times (60)

46 row: (8 sc, decavage) – 6 times (54)

47 row: (7 sc, decavage) – 6 times (48)

48 row: (6 sc, decavage) – 6 times (42)

Row 49: (5 sc, decavage) – 6 times (36)

Row 50: (4 sc, decavage) – 6 times (30)

51 row: (3 sc, decavage) – 6 times (24)

Row 52: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

53 row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Row 54: tighten

Now we will do the tightening:

We stick the needle from below in the places marked with pins, pull it out in the place of the future eye sockets, stick it through the row and stick it down next to each other so that the 2 tails of the thread are not in one hole, but through a loop or through a row, pull it together and tie it in a knot, it will sink into its drawstring it won’t be visible, the tails are different, we do the same with the second eye socket, we will get a tightening for the eye sockets and the cheeks will be formed.

EARS, NOSRAILS, WINGS, NEEDLES, EYES

Before knitting this little thing, I advise you to assemble the dragon. I incised my head and hands. The legs were attached with a hinge so that the dragon could sit down.

Ears – 2 pcs.

We knit in green yarn

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

5 – 9 row: 24 sc

Row 10: (2 sc, decavage) – 6 times (18)

11th row: (1 sc, decavage) – 6 times (12)

Do not stuff, fold and stick to the head.

Nostrils – 2 pcs.

I knit directly on the face

Between 6 and 7 rows we connect the thread: 3 in. lifting point, 9 dc (see photo), perform 2 nostrils symmetrically

Wings – 1 piece

We knit in green yarn

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

Row 4: (2 sc, inc.) – 6 times (24)

Row 5: (3 sc, inc.) – 6 times (30)

Row 6: (4 sc, inc.) – 6 times (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc.) – 6 times (42)

Row 8: (6 sc, inc.) – 6 times (48)

Row 9: (7 sc, inc.) – 6 times (54)

Row 10: (8 sc, inc.) – 6 times (60)

Row 11: (9 sc, inc.) – 6 times (66)

Row 12: (10 sc, inc.) – 6 times (72)

Fold in half, tie 2 loops with 36 sc yellow inc, then knit arches from 6 in. P. inc joining in every 4 loops, we tie each arch – (4 sc, 3 in. P. 4 sc) – 9 times.

I folded the finished wings again and sewed them with hidden stitches using regular thread so that they would puff up.

We sew it to the body.

Needles – 17 pcs.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: (2 sc, inc.) – 2 times (8)

3rd row: (3 sc, inc.) – 2 times (10)

Row 4: (4 sc, inc.) – 2 times (12)

Row 5: (5 sc, inc.) – 2 times (14)

Row 6: (6 sc, inc.) – 6 times (16)

7th row: 16 sc

I didn’t stuff the needles, we sew each one to the body.

Eyes – 2 pcs.

Pupil with protein crocheted No. 3

We start with black thread

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Let’s switch to white

3 – 5 row: 12 sc

Row 6: 1 sc, cut to end of row

Eyelid – hook No. 2.5

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increments (12)

Row 3: (sc, inc) – 6 times (18)

4 – 6 row: 18 sc

We embroider highlights.

We insert the white into the eyelid, between them the eyelashes, glue everything together and attach it to the head. I also glued it to the head

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