Hello dear amigurumi lovers, we share many amigurumi recipes with you in detail. The recipe we will share today will be Dwarf.
It’s really nice to knit amigurumi crochet recipes. Dwarf is a model that you will enjoy knitting. Make sure your kids will have a good time when this Dwarf pattern is finished. There may be different Dwarf recipes, but I can say this is the sweetest.
Amigurumi cute Dwarf also helps you instill a love of animals in your kids.
Don’t forget to check out our other free recipes.
Phone Stand Gnome
Useful Things To Know
hook-size, yarn-weight and what
that means for your crocheted
figure/item
For the figures/items you see in this pattern I
used DK yarn (e.g. Puppets Lyric 8/8) or two
strands of Sport yarn (e.g. Catania Originals).
And a 3 mm hook.
Use lighter yarn and the figure will be smaller.
Use heavier yarn and it will be taller.
Whatever types of yarn you are using: make
sure they have the same weight (per figure).
Mobile phones might not fit then anymore
though.
expected size of figure/item with the yarn and hooks mentioned above I got the following size(s) for the figures/items: 14 cm wide & 22 cm tall
yarn-info I recommend cotton yarn for this figure. It’s sturdy and keeps its form.
gauge Just tight enough so the stuffing can’t be seen/can’t come out. It helps to use a crochet hook one or two sizes smaller than recommended for your chosen type of yarn.
abbreviations
ch – chain
st – stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
trc – triple crochet
sl – slip stitch
2sc – increase, work 2 single crochets in the
same stitch
inv_dec – invisible decrease, join 2 stitches to
1 (alternatively use the sc2tog-method)
Dec-standart decrease
materials used
(= used, = not used for this pattern)
3.0 mm crochet hook
tapestry needle(s)
stitch marker (e.g. a piece of scrap-yarn)
scissors
stuffing
a bit of heavy stuffing (e.g. pea gravel,
marbles, sand)
a small freezer bag for the heavy stuffing
some colored pins
DK or Sports yarn (2 strands) in the colors of
your liking
yarn in the following colors:
I used Puppets Lyric Yarn with the following color-codes: 5026 (berry), 5013 (brown), 5002 (cream), 5000 (white), 5087 (pink), 5090
amount of DK yarn (these are the
amounts I needed – it highly depends
on your chosen type of yarn, the size
of your hook etc.)
– 11 g for the boots
– 12 g for hands & nose
– 15 g for the beard
– 53 g for body & arms
– 35 – 42 g for the hat
– 7 g for the body’s pockets
– 24 g for the hat’s pockets
3 2sc in next st, sc in next st* around – 18
meaning:
in line 3 work 2 single crochets in the next
stitch, then work 1 sc in the following stitch;
everything between * * gets to be repeated
until the current round is completed;
the completed round has 18 stitches;
Example 2:
*2sc in next st* x6, sc in next 4 st – 16
meaning:
work 2 single crochets in the next stitch,
repeat doing that until you’ve done it 6 times;
then work 1 single crochet in each of the next
4 stitches;
1 magic ring of 8 sc – 8
Crochet 4 unfinished
double crochets into one
stitch…
… then grab the yarn
and pull it through all
the loops on your hook.
2 *2sc in next 3 st, sc in next st* x2 – 14
3 sc in next 2 st,
2sc in next 3 st, sc in next 4 st,
2sc in next 3 st, sc in next 2 st – 20
4 sc in next 3 st,
*2sc in next st, sc in next st* x3, sc in next 4 st,
*2sc in next st, sc in next st* x3, sc in next st – 26
booble stitch:
the bobble stitch consists of 4 unfinished double crochets
worked into the same stitch; leave the last loop of each of them
unfinished so that you end up with 2 loops left on your hook
after the first dc and an additional loop after each of the
following dc; in the end you have 5 loops on your hook; yarn
over then and pull the yarn through all loops on your hook;
in detail:
yarn over, guide your hook through the next stitch, grab the yarn
and pull a loop through, grab the yarn again and pull it through
the first 2 loops on your hook – that’s the first unfinished dc (2
loops left on your hook);
repeat in same st until there are 5 loops left on your hook;
now grab the yarn and pull it through all the loops on your hook;
5 in this round the thumb is created with a bobble stitch ( see →
page 22 for details on that),
hand 1:
sc in next 15 st, 1 bobble in next st, sc in next 2 st,
in back loops ( see page → 23): sc in next 4 st,
through both loops: sc in next 4 st – 26
hand 2:
sc in next 18 st,
in back loops: sc in next 4 st,
through both loops: sc in next 2 st, 1 bobble in next st, sc in next
st – 26
push the bobble to the hand’s outside in case it’s sitting on the
inside
6 sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 17 st – 24
7 sc in next 2 st, *inv_dec* x4, sc in next 14 st – 20
8 *inv_dec* x4, sc in next 12 – 16
stuff the hand a little bit but keep it flat and soft
9 *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 6 st, sl in next st
the rest of the stitches remain unworked
fasten off HAND-COLOR & leave the yarn-end hang for now
connect yarn in BODY-COLOR to the hand’s stitch the last slip
stitch sits in; only use the front loop; don’t use the slip stitch for
crocheting;
now secure the yarn-end from the hand with the yarn-end from
the arm with several knots on the hand’s inside and cut off the
excess yarn;
→ see page 24 for details
10 begin crocheting in the same stitch you connected the yarn to;
put the stitch-marker in the first of the following stitches:
in front loops ( see page → 23): *2sc in next st, sc in next st*
around – 21
11 *sc in next st* around – 21
12 inv_dec, sc in next 19 st – 20
13 *sc in next st* around – 20
14 *sc in next st* around – 20
15 *inv_dec, sc in next 8 st* x2 – 18
16 *sc in next st* around – 18
17 *inv_dec, sc in next 7 st* x2 – 16
18 *sc in next st* around – 16
stuff the arm a little bit
the following part of the arm can remain empty
19 *inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* x2 – 14
20 *sc in next st* around – 14
21 *inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* x2 – 12
22 *sc in next st* around – 12
23 *inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* x2 – 10
24 sc in next 3 st,
now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on
the side; both side-stitches remain unworked;
crochet the opening closed with:
sc in next 4 stitch-pairs
→ see page 25 for details on crocheting openings closed
fasten off & weave in yarn-end
→ see page 26 for details on weaving in yarn-ends
BOOT (make 2, use yarn in BOOT-COLOR)
Info: The boot doesn’t have regular increases. From round 2 on the
increases are placed to create an oval shape for the boot’s sole.
1 magic ring of 8 sc – 8
Crochet the opening
closed with 5 single
crochets.
The finished boots.
2 *2sc in next 3 st, sc in next st* x2 – 14
3 sc in next 2 st,
2sc in next 3 st, sc in next 4 st,
2sc in next 3 st, sc in next 2 st – 20
4 sc in next 3 st,
*2sc in next st, sc in next st* x3, sc in next 4 st,
*2sc in next st, sc in next st* x3, sc in next st – 26
5 *sc in next st* around – 26
6 *sc in next st* around – 26
7 sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 16 st – 24
8 sc in next 3 st, *inv_dec* x4, sc in next 13 st – 20
9 sc in next st, *inv_dec* x4, sc in next 11 – 16
stuff the boot a little bit so that the toes are filled
the following part of the boot can remain empty
10 *inv_dec* x3, sc in next 10 st – 13
11 sc in next st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st,
now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on
the side; both side-stitches remain unworked;
crochet the opening closed with:
sc in next 5 stitch-pairs
fasten off & weave in yarn-end
NOSE (make 1, use yarn in NOSE-COLOR)
Info: The nose doesn’t have regular increases. From round 2 on the
increases are placed to create an oval shape.
1 magic ring of 8 sc – 8
Crochet the opening
closed with 6 single
crochets.
The finished nose.
2 *2sc in next 3 st, sc in next st* x2 – 14
3 sc in next 2 st,
2sc in next 3 st, sc in next 4 st,
2sc in next 3 st, sc in next 2 st – 20
4 *sc in next st* around – 20
5 sc in next 2 st, *inv_dec* x3,
sc in next 4 st, *inv_dec* x3,
sc in next 2 st – 14
stuff the nose
6 sc in next 4 st,
now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on
the side; both side-stitches remain unworked;
crochet the opening closed with:
sc in next 6 stitch-pairs
fasten off & weave in yarn-end
OPTIONAL: BODY POCKET (make 2, use yarn in POCKET-COLOR)
Info: After a couple of rounds guide the yarn-end from the beginning to the
outside through the center of the magic ring.
1 magic ring of 7 sc – 7
Guide the yarn-end to the
outside.
2 *2sc in next st* around – 14
3 *sc in next st* around – 14
4 *sc in next st* around – 14
5 *sc in next st* around – 14
6 *sc in next st* around – 14
7 *sc in next st* around – 14
8 *sc in next st* around – 14
9 *sc in next st* around (sl in last st) – 14
fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the outside
OPTIONAL: HAT POCKET, big (make 3, use yarn in POCKET-COLOR)
Info: After a couple of rounds guide the yarn-end from the beginning to the
outside through the center of the magic ring.
1 magic ring of 8 sc – 8
The finished big pockets
for the hat.
2 *2sc in next st* around – 16
3 *sc in next st* around – 16
4 *sc in next st* around – 16
5 *sc in next st* around – 16
6 *sc in next st* around – 16
7 *sc in next st* around – 16
8 *sc in next st* around – 16
9 *sc in next st* around – 16
10 *sc in next st* around – 16
11 *sc in next st* around – 16
12 *sc in next st* around (sl in last st) – 16
fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the outside
a crochet pattern by Stephanie Risth
OPTIONAL: HAT POCKET, small (make 2, use yarn in POCKET-COLOR)
Info: After a couple of rounds guide the yarn-end from the beginning to the
outside through the center of the magic ring.
1 magic ring of 6 sc – 6
The finished small
pockets for the hat.
2 *2sc in next st* around – 12
3 *sc in next st* around – 12
4 *sc in next st* around – 12
5 *sc in next st* around – 12
6 *sc in next st* around – 12
7 *sc in next st* around – 12
8 *sc in next st* around – 12
9 *sc in next st* around – 12
10 *sc in next st* around – 12
11 *sc in next st* around – 12
12 *sc in next st* around (sl in last st) – 12
fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the outside
GNOME (make 1, begin with yarn in BODY-COLOR)
1 magic ring of 6 sc – 6
2 *2sc in next st* around – 12
3 *2sc in next st, sc in next st* around – 18
4 *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around – 24
change of sequence
from here on there are 8 increases per round instead of 6
5 *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around – 32
6 *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around – 40
7 sc in next 3 st,
*2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* x7,
2sc in next st, sc in next st – 48
8 sc in next 3 st,
*2sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* x7,
2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st – 56
9 *2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around – 64
10 in this round the hands & boots are crocheted to the body ( →
see page 27 for details on crocheting body-parts to the body)
sc in next 6 st,
place the first arm on top of your work; the hand’s palm rests
against the work, the fingers point towards the magic ring and
the front loops on the hand’s heel are lined up with the stitches
of the body;
the thumb must point in crochet direction;
guide your hook through the hand’s first front loop and from
there through the next stitch on the body; push both stitches
close together; you now have the first stitch-pair on your hook;
crochet the first hand on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs,
continue on body with: sc in next 16 st,
now place the first boot in front of your work so that the toes are
pointing towards you;
crochet the first boot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs,
continue on body with: sc in next 2 st,
crochet the second boot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs,
continue on body with: sc in next 15 st,
crochet second hand on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, (this time
the thumb is pointing against your crochet direction)
continue on body with: sc in next 7 st – 64
11 sc in next 20 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 9 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 9 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 20 st – 61
12 *sc in next st* around – 61
13 *sc in next st* around – 61
14 sc in next 20 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 8 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 8 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 19 st – 58
15 *sc in next st* around – 58
16 *sc in next st* around – 58
17 sc in next 20 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 7 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 7 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 18 st – 55
Info: during the next two rounds the body’s
pockets are crocheted to the body;
it’s similar to crocheting body-parts to the
body with the difference that you place the
pockets inside the body instead of placing them
in front of it;
ignore the prompts for the pockets if you don’t
want any; keep crocheting with single crochets
until the round is complete;
18 in this round the first half of each of the two pockets is crocheted
to the body ( see page → 29 for details)
sc in next 14 st,
place the first pocket inside the body;
guide your hook through the next stitch of the body and from
there through one of the stitches of the pocket;
partially crochet the first pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs,
continue on body with: sc in next 15 st,
partially crochet the second pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitchpairs,
continue on body with: sc in next 12 st – 55
19 in this round the second half of the pockets is crocheted to the
body
sc in next 14 st,
continue on pocket with: sc in next 7 st,
continue on body with: sc in next 15 st,
continue on second pocket with: sc in next 7 st,
continue on body with: sc in next 12 st – 55
20 sc in next 20 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 6 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 6 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 17 st – 52
21 *sc in next st* around – 52
22 *sc in next st* around – 52
23 sc in next 20 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 5 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 5 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 16 st – 49
24 *sc in next st* around – 49
25 *sc in next st* around – 49
26 sc in next 20 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 4 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 4 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 15 st – 46
27 *sc in next st* around – 46
28 *sc in next st* around – 46
29 sc in next 20 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 3 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 3 st, inv_dec,
sc in next 14 st – 43
30 *sc in next st* around – 43
31 in this round the ends of the arms are crocheted to the body
sc in next 11 st,
crochet the first arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs,
continue on body with: sc in next 21 st,
crochet the second arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs,
continue on body with: sc in next 3 st – 43
change to BEARD-COLOR with last st
fasten off BODY-COLOR and secure both yarn-ends on the
body’s inside with several knots
stuff the body
put a handful of heavy filling (e.g. pea gravel, sand, marbles…)
into a small freezer bag; close the bag and place it inside the
Gnome’s body, towards the front;
fill up the rest with soft stuffing;
make sure the front stays flat don’t force it to bulge out;
32a in this round the beard is created
this round has 43 stitches; there’s 1 beard-strand per stitch; a
beard-strand starts and ends in the same stitch;
the beard is divided into 5 sections; use a marker to mark the
first strand of a new section if you like; that way it’s easier to get
back into it in case you lost count or had to pause your work;
only use the front loops for the beard-strands
section 1:
here the beard-strands’ lengths alternate between 12 and 14;
*sc in next front loop, chain 12, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 14, sc in same front loop* x7
→ 14 beard-strands
section 2:
from here on the beard-strands get longer by 2 stitches;
sc in next front loop, chain 16, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 18, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 20, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 22, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 24, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 26, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 28, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 30, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 32, sc in same front loop
→ 9 beard-strands
section 3:
here the beard-strands all have the same lengths of 34;
*sc in next front loop, chain 34, sc in same front loop* x4
→ 4 beard-strands
section 4:
from here on the beard-strands get shorter by 2 stitches;
sc in next front loop, chain 32, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 30, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 28, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 26, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 24, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 22, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 20, sc in same front loop
sc in next front loop, chain 18, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 16, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 14, sc in same front loop
→ 10 beard-strands
section 5:
here the lengths alternate between 12 and 14;
*sc in next front loop, chain 12, sc in same front loop,
sc in next front loop, chain 14, sc in same front loop* x3
10 beard-strands
32b in this round the nose is crocheted to the body
use the remaining back loops;
the first back loop to use is the one the stitch-marker comes out
from under;
put the stitch-marker in the first of the following stitches:
sc in next 23 st,
crochet the nose on with: sc in next 6 stitch-pairs,
continue on body with: sc in next 14 st – 43
change to HAT-COLOR with last st
fasten off BEARD-COLOR and secure both yarn-ends on the
body’s inside with several knots
stop stuffing from here on until the hat’s pockets are in place
33 in front loops:
*2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* x4,
*2sc in next st, sc in next st* x3,
*sc in next st, 2sc in next st* x3,
*sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st* x2,
sc in next st – 55
34 *2sc in next st, sc in next 10 st* around – 60
35 sc in next 6 st,
*2sc in next st, sc in next 11 st* x2,
*2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* x2,
2sc in next st, sc in next 11 st,
2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st – 66
36 in back loops:
*sc in next st* around – 66
a crochet pattern by Steph
secure the hat’s rim to the body in six places:
to the nose, on the body’s back side, right above the arms and
between arms and nose;
use yarn in BEARD- or HAT-COLOR for that;
only use the rim’s first three rounds for sewing (not the last one
above the round of front loops);
guide the yarn through a stitch on the rim, from there into the
body and then through neighboring stitches out of the body and
through the rim again; pull tight & secure the yarn-ends with
several knots;
on the nose use stitches between rounds 4 & 5 (counted from
the tip);
37 here the beginning of the round is moved a bit ahead:
remove the current stitch-marker,
sc in next 8 st,
put the stitch-marker in the first of the following stitches:
*sc in next st* around – 66
38 *inv_dec, sc in next 9 st* around – 60
39 *sc in next st* around – 60
change of sequence
from here on there are 5 decreases per round instead of 6
40 *inv_dec, sc in next 10 st* around – 55
41 *sc in next st* around – 55
42 *inv_dec, sc in next 9 st* around – 50
Info: during the next couple of rounds the hat’s
pockets are crocheted to the hat;
ignore the prompts for the pockets if you don’t
want any; keep crocheting with single crochets
until the round is complete;
43 in this round the first half of each of the three big pockets is
crocheted to the hat ( see page → 29 for details)
sc in next 2 st,
crochet the first big pocket on with: sc in next 8 stitch-pairs,
continue on hat with: sc in next 10 st,
crochet the second big pocket on with: sc in next 8 stitch-pairs,
continue on hat with: sc in next 10 st,
crochet the third big pocket on with: sc in next 8 stitch-pairs,
continue on hat with: sc in next 4 st – 50
44 in this round the second half of the pockets is crocheted to the
body
sc in next 2 st,
continue on pocket with: sc in next 8 st,
continue on hat with: sc in next 10 st,
continue on pocket with: sc in next 8 st,
continue on hat with: sc in next 10 st,
continue on pocket with: sc in next 8 st,
continue on hat with: sc in next 4 st – 50
45 *inv_dec, sc in next 8 st* around – 45
46 in this round the first half of each of the two small pockets is
crocheted to the hat
sc in next 11 st,
crochet the first small pocket on with: sc in next 6 stitch-pairs,
continue on hat with: sc in next 10 st,
crochet the second small pocket on with: sc in next 6 stitchpairs,
continue on hat with: sc in next 12 st – 45
47 in this round the second half of the pockets is crocheted to the
body
sc in next 11 st,
continue on pocket with: sc in next 6 st,
continue on hat with: sc in next 10 st,
continue on pocket with: sc in next 6 st,
continue on hat with: sc in next 12 st – 45
48 *inv_dec, sc in next 7 st* around – 40
49 *sc in next st* around – 40
50 *inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* around – 35
51 *sc in next st* around – 35
stuff the hat a bit, not too much
the rest of the hat can remain empty
52 *inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* – 30
53 *sc in next st* around – 30
54 *inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around – 25
55 *sc in next st* around – 25
56 *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around – 20
57 *sc in next st* around – 20
58 *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* around – 15
59 *sc in next st* around – 15
60 inv_dec, sc in next 13 st – 14
61 inv_dec, sc in next 12 st – 13
62 inv_dec, sc in next 11 st – 12
63 inv_dec, sc in next 10 st – 11
64 inv_dec, sc in next 9 st – 10
65 inv_dec, sc in next 8 st – 9
66 inv_dec, sc in next 7 st – 8
67 inv_dec, sc in next 6 st – 7
68 *sc in next st* around – 7
here you can decide how long the tip of the hat should be
if you’d like to tie a knot you need to repeat round 68 several
times (I made 30 repeats);
after that continue with round 69 and finish the hat;
tip: instead of the knotted variant you could place a pipe-cleaner
inside the long tip before finishing it; that way you could bend it
into various shapes;
if you’d like the hat to remain as it is just continue with round 69
and finish the hat;
69 inv_dec, sc in next 5 st – 6
fasten off, sew remaining opening closed & hide yarn-end
→ see page 3
the hand’s bobble stitch
1) The bobble stitch consists of 4 incomplete double crochets worked into the same stitch.
So, yarn over…
2) … guide your hook through the next stitch,grab yarn and pull a loop through the stitch.
3) Grab yarn again and pull it through the first two loops on your hook.Stop there. Now you have
2 loops on your hook.That’s the first incomplete double crochet.
4) Now repeat this into the same stitch:
yarn over, guide your hook through the same stitch, pull a loop through, grab yarn and
pull it through the first two loops on your
hook.
You end up with 3 loops
on your hook.
5) Repeat again.
You end up with 4 loops
on your hook.
6) Repeat again.
Now you have 5 loops on
your hook.
a crochet pattern by Stephanie Risth
7) Now grab the yarn and pull it through all the loops on your hook.
8) Continue crocheting along the hand. The bobble will most likely end up on the inside.
9) Just push it towards the outside once the round is finished. That’s the thumb.
crocheting in back loops & front loops
BACK LOOPS:
A stitch consists of two loops. Insert
your crochet hook between those two
loops and guide it under the one
farthest away from you (the back
loop).
Now grab your yarn, pull it through
the loop and make a single crochet or
whatever stitch is required. Increases
are possible here as well. Invisible
decreases don’t work that well here
though. But you can decrease with the
common 2tog-method.
FRONT LOOPS:
The loop closest to you is the front
loop. Guide your hook through the
stitch like you normally would, but
instead of guiding it under both
loops, let it come out between them.
Now grab your yarn and crochet through
that loop. All kinds of stitches as
well as increases and decreases are
possible here.
1) Get one of the hands
and yarn in body-color
ready.
2) Guide your hook
through the stitch the
hand’s last slip stitch
sits in.
Only use the front loop.
3) Grab yarn in bodycolor and pull a loop
through the loop on your
hook.
4) Grab yarn again and
pull it through the loop
on your hook.
The yarn is now
connected to the hand.
5) Secure the yarn-end
with the one from the
hand with several knots
on the hand’s inside.
6) Begin crocheting in
the same front loop you
connected the yarn to.
Put a stitch-marker in
this first stitch.
7) Work the entire round
in the front loops only.
8) Don’t use the slip
stitch at the round’s
end for crocheting.
crocheting openings closed (boots, arms, nose)
Info: I’m showing this for the boots in detail. It’s the same technique for
the arms and nose.
1) Flatten the opening
so that the stitch you
made last sits on the
side.
Both side-stitches are
not used for crocheting.
2) Now guide your hook
through the boot’s next
stitch and from there
through the opposite
stitch on the other side
of the opening.
3) Push the stitches
close together and
crochet a single
crochet.
4) Repeat this with the
remaining stitch-pairs.
Then fasten off.
5) It’s the same for the
arms…
6) … and nose.
weaving in yarn-ends (boots, arms, nose, pockets)
Info: For closed openings I’m showing this for the boots in detail. It’s
the same technique for the arms and nose.
1) With closed openings
just weave the yarn-end
through a couple of
stitches.
I usually weave it a few
times through the last
row.
2) Then let it come out
of a random stitch.
3) Pull through
completely and cut off
the rest close to the
fabric.
4) It’s the same with
the arms…
5) … and nose. 6) With the pockets just
weave the yarn-end
through some stitches on
the outside, then cut
off the excess yarn.
crocheting body-parts to the body (hands, boots, arms, nose)
Info: This technique is shown in detail for the hands and boots here. It’s
the same for the arms and nose.
1) Place one of the arms
on top of your work. The
fingers point towards
the magic ring and the
thumb points in crochet
direction.
2) Guide your hook
through the first of the
front loops on the
hand’s heel…
3) … and from there
through the body’s next
stitch.
4) Push both stitches
close together.
5) Crochet a single
crochet through both
stitches on your hook.
6) Repeat this with the
remaining 3 stitchpairs.
7) Now the hand is
connected to the body.
8) Continue crocheting
along the body with
single crochets.
9) Then place the first
boot on top of your work
with its toes pointing
towards you.
10) Guide your hook
through the boot’s first
stitch and from there
through the body’s next
stitch.
11) Crochet the boot on
with 5 single crochets.
12) The second boot is
crocheted on in the same
manner.
13) Then follows the
second hand.
This time the thumb is
pointing against your
crochet direction.
14) It’s the same
technique for the
arms…
15) … and the nose.
crocheting the pockets to the body and hat
Info: I’m showing this for the body’s pockets in detail. It’s the same
technique for the hat’s pockets.
1) Place the body’s
pocket inside the body.
It takes two rounds to
completely connect a
pocket to the body.
2) Now guide your hook
through the body’s next
stitch and from there
through one of the
stitches of the pocket.
It doesn’t matter with
which stitch you begin
here.
3) Crochet a single
crochet through this
first stitch-pair.
Then repeat with the
next 6 stitch-pairs.
4) Repeat this with the
second pocket.
5) In the second round
crochet until you reach
a pocket.
6) Then switch to the
pocket and continue
crocheting there.
7) Crochet along the
pocket with 7 single
crochets.
8) Continue on the body
until you reach the next
pocket.
9) Repeat the process
there, then finish the
round with single
crochets.
10) It’s the same with
the hat’s pockets.
Place them inside the
hat and crochet the
first half to the hat
with single crochets.
11) In the second round crochet along the pockets’ second halves.
12) It’s the same for the hat’s small pockets.
crocheting the beard
1) First, change to beard-color at the end of round 31.Secure the yarn-ends on the body’s inside with
several knots and cut off the excess yarn.Next round has 43 stitches. The beard consists of 43 beardstrands which are divided into 5 sections.
2) During the beard’s first round leave the stitch-marker in its
current position (1st stitch of round 31).The beard’s first round is done in the front loops only.
3) Each beard-strand begins with a single crochet in the next front loop.
4) Chain 12.
5) Now work a single crochet into the same front loop.Each beard-strand starts and ends in the same front loop.
6) Start the next one by crocheting a single crochet into the body’s next front loop.
7) Chain 14, sc in the same front loop.
8) Repeat this until you have 14 beard-strands in total, alternating between lengths of 12 and 14.That’s the first section.
9) The second section begins with a chain 16.To keep track of the beard-sections mark the
first beard-strand of each section with a marker.In this section the chains get longer by 2.Make beard-strands until you have a total of 9.
10) The third section begins with a chain 34.The chains here have all the same length of 34.
Make strands until you have a total of 4.
11) The forth section begins with a chain 32.Here the chains get shorter by 2.Make strands until you
have a total of 10.
12) The fifth section begins with a chain 12.Here the strands alternate in lengths again between 12 and 14.Keep going until the round is complete and you have a total of 6 strands.
13) The beard’s second round is worked in the remaining back loops.The first one to use is the one the stitchmarker comes out from under.
14) Crochet a single crochet and put the stitch-marker in this first stitch.Then continue with single crochets in the back loops.
15) In between the nose is crocheted to the body.
securing the hat’s rim to the body
1) Secure the hat’s rim in six places: the nose,between nose and arms,above the arms, and on the back side.Here I roughly marked those places with pins.
2) Begin with the nose.Use stitches between round 4 & 5 (counted from the tip).
3) Guide your needle through two stitches that sit about 3 or 4 stitches apart.Pull the yarn halfway through.
4) Then guide the yarnends through matching stitches on the hat’s rim.Don’t use the rim’s last round (above the round of front loops) for sewing.
5) Pull the yarn-ends tight and secure them with several knots.
6) The rest of the places are even easier to secure.Fold the rim down and guide your needle through the rim towards the body’s inside.
7) Pull yarn halfway through and guide the needle back through neighboring stitches.
8) Pull the yarn-ends tight and secure them with several knots.
9) Repeat this with the rest of the places.sewing an opening closed & hiding the yarn-end
1) Fasten off and sew the opening closed with a couple of stitches.
2) Then weave the yarnend through some stitches and let it come out of a random stitch.
3) Pull through completely and cut off close to the fabric.
